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Our Weather Instrument FAQ's answer many of our customers questions, take a look and see if we can answer your question in the information below. If not, please call us at 1-877-255-3700.

Can I adjust my barometer and how is it done?
Answer: First of all, contact your local U.S. Weather Service or airport and obtain the correct sea level barometric pressure. Barometric pressure is usually denoted in millibars, inches or millimeters of mercury, or kilopascals. Inches-of-mercury is most common in the U.S. and will be used in the following discussion.

On the back of your barometer is an adjusting screw. Since there are usually several screws, the adjusting screw is marked with an arrow, a "+" and "-", or simply with the inscription "adjust here". Turn this screw COUNTERCLOCKWISE while periodically checking the pointer on the face of the barometer. The pointer should point to increasing pressure as you release the adjusting screw. Continue turning the screw counterclockwise until the pointer stops moving. If your barometer does not behave as described above, please contact us for advice.

Now, turn the adjusting screw CLOCKWISE until, the pointer on the face of the barometer indicates the correct sea level pressure. Normally, the pointer will move three- or four-hundredths of an inch after you remove the screwdriver from the adjusting screw, so stop turning just before you reach the correct pressure.

Your barometer is now set. Hang it on the wall and give the face a couple of taps. The pointer should indicate the pressure you obtained from the weather service or airport within a few hundredths of an inch.

*If you move the barometer to a new location at a different altitude, it should be readjusted. Also, after a period of months or years, you may want to readjust the instrument since the internal moving parts will have worked into stable locations.

How do I read my barometer?
Answer: The total range in your barometer readings throughout the year will be from around 29.0 inches to about 30.5 inches. Any words on the face of the instrument such as stormy, rain, or dry should be ignored. Typically, three things affect the pressure indicated on your instrument; one; heating or cooling of the barometer, two, daily heating of the atmosphere by the sun; and three, air pressure changes indicating weather changes.

Items one and two can amount to several hundredths of an inch in pressure. Therefore, to forecast future weather conditions you should look for pressure changes larger than one-tenth inch. Increasing pressure indicates fair weather; decreasing pressure precedes inclement weather. The faster the pressure change, the more severe the weather changes.

Forecasting takes practice and patience. With both, however, you can do an excellent job for your location.

Question: My water barometer is not moving - what can I do, how do I fill it, and how does it work?
Answer: In an era when forecasting the weather was an art relying on clues from nature, the Thunder Glass also known as a "storm glass" or "water barometer", was one of the few tools based on scientific principle. In colonial days the weather glass was a standard ship's instrument used to predict approaching storms. Today, while not often used aboard ships, in your home or office it makes an interesting and educational conversation piece.

Simple applied science dating back to the early 17th Century Netherlands accounts for the reliability of the weather glass. The surrounding air pressure influences the level of the water in the spout. The rise and fall of the water level in the long curved spout indicates various weather conditions. High-pressure pushes the water down into the spout indicating fair weather. Low-pressure systems come with storms and rain, and create a high water level in the spout. The weather glass will forecast weather changes 8 to 12 hours in advance.

Historians believe Pilgrims brought thunder glasses to the colonies in the 1620's and they continue to fascinate weather watchers today.

• Slow Rise To The Top Of The Spout indicates approaching storm 8 to 12 hours away. The storm may or may not change course.
• Rapid Rise To Top Of The Spout indicates approaching local storm. If the storm changes its course this will be forecast by an immediate fall of the water to normal level.
• Bubbling Out Of The Spout indicates rapidly approaching local storm only a few hours away.
• Rapid Fall During Storm indicates storm is nearly over.
• Holding Steady Half Way Up indicates clear weather.

* Hot weather will make water level rise about an inch. Discard this as "forecaster" as it is caused by a sudden increase of temperature.

Question: Where should I hang my weather glass?
Answer: The weather glass should not be hung in the sun or near a radiator, as excessive heat prevents proper operation. Once hung in place, do not move it unless necessary.

Question: Where should I mount my barometer?
Answer: Your barometer should be mounted in a location which you normally pass by daily, such as an entryway or hallway. Twice daily (morning and evening) give the face of the instrument a couple of taps and mentally note the reading. You may also use the set hand to mark the location of the pressure pointer for future reference. Also, note the wind direction during the day. Falling pressure is often accompanied by southerly winds, rising pressure by northerly or northwest winds.

How does an Atomic Clock Work?
Answer: A radio-controlled clock has a radio inside, which receives a signal that comes from the atomic clock in Boulder, Colorado. Once your radio-controlled clock has received and decoded the signal from the atomic clock, it will syncronize its own clock to the message received by radio. Before it does so, it applies a time zone correction, based on the time zone setting that you supplied.

The time broadcast by the atomic clock is Coordinated Universal Time (UTC), or the time kept at the Prime Meridian that passes through Greenwich, England.

I am traveling to Europe - will my atomic alarm clock work there?
Answer: Yes and no. Yes, your alarm clock will work but you will have to set the time yourself as the atomic clock will not pick up a signal outside of the USA. Atomic clocks manufactured for the USA are programmed to pick up a specific radio frequency for the USA only. The radio signals for places other than the USA have different radio frequencies. So you can take your atomic travel clock with you - just remember to set it to the local time.

Will an atomic clock work in Hawaii?
Answer: Some will, some will not. You need to check to see what time zones the clock has. Some clocks are only programmed for Pacific through Eastern Time zones so they will not work in Hawaii or parts of Alaska. Some atomic clocks are programmed for more than the standard 4 time zones and will work in Hawaii. Before you purchase an atomic clock for use outside the basic 4 time zones you should check to see if it will work in your time zone.

My atomic clock is not picking up the radio signal - what can I do?
Answer: Other electronic signals can interfere with atomic clock reception. You should make sure that the clock is not near any other electronics such as computers, radios, or televisions. If you are still having trouble picking up the signal, place the clock by a window for better reception. Sometimes it will not pick up a signal for up to 24 hours, as the strongest radio signals are sent during the very early morning hours.

Don't forget to make sure you have fresh batteries in your clock, as weak batteries can cause poor reception.

I hear about the atomic clock being in Boulder and Fort Collins, Colorado. Where actually is the atomic clock?
Answer: The actual atomic clock is located in Boulder, Colorado. The signal that is sent out from the atomic clock is transmitted from radio towers in Fort Collins, Colorado. So your clock is receiving the time from Boulder, Colorado via signals transmitted from Fort Collins, Colorado.

My hygrometer does not match another hygrometer I have - what could cause this?
Answer: A hygrometer measures the humidity in an approximate 10' radius of where it is mounted. If you are comparing two instruments, they need be next to each other and even then there can be a difference. The industry standard for accuracy on hygrometers is ±5%. If one instrument is measuring 5% low and the other is 5% high, there would be a difference of 10%.

To check the accuracy of a hygrometer, wrap it in a damp towel and leave it for about an hour. After an hour, the hygrometer should read between 95% and 100%. If it is not in that range, check the instructions on how to calibrate the instrument.

My hygrometer has a comfort zone–what is that?
Answer: The comfort zone is a combination of humidity and temperature under which most people feel comfortable. The standard comfort zone is generally considered to be when the temperature is between 65° and 80°F and the humidity is between 30% and 80%.

Where is the best place to mount my thermometer?
Answer: For indoor mounting you want to place it away from heat vents, drafts, or direct sunlight coming in from a window. For outdoor mounting you want to put it where it will not be hit directly by the sun, as this will cause a false reading. The best place to mount it is under an eve of a house or under a porch railing, where it will get a free flow of air.

The readings on my new thermometer do not match an older thermometer I have?
Answer: When comparing two instruments they need to be next to each other and at the same level. The industry standard for accuracy of thermometers is ± 2° F. If one instrument is 2° high and one is 2° low then there will be a difference of 4° F. You should take into account that the older thermometer you are comparing your new one with could be inaccurate.

I live in an area that has extremely cold temperatures in the winter—will outdoor thermometers work for me?
Answer: Yes, some of the dial thermometers will record temperatures down to -20° or -30° F. Some of the digital thermometers with outdoor sensors can record temperatures down to -40° F. Normal alkaline batteries will lose power in cold temperatures and will freeze and stop working in freezing temperatures. When the temperature goes back above freezing, the batteries will thaw and start working again.

This will not harm your temperature sensor. However, lithium and titanium batteries will function at extremly low temperatures. So, if you are expecting temperatures to drop below freezing, it is best to replace your alkaline batteries with lithium or titanium batteries. They are available at most electronic or camera stores.

Can I calibrate my thermometer, and how do I do that?
Answer: Digital thermometers cannot be calibrated. Some dial thermometers can be calibrated. The directions for this will be in the instructions that came with the instrument.

How do the Galileo Thermometers work?
Answer: The basic idea is that as the temperature of the air outside the thermometer changes, so does the temperature of the liquids in the tube and in the globes. As the temperature of the liquid changes, so does its density. The change in density of the liquid, caused by a change of temperature, causes the globes to fall when temperature rises and rise when the temperature falls. To read the temperature, look at the temperature tag on the lowest globe of those grouped at the top of the tube.

I am not getting a reading from my wireless instrument's outside sensor.
Answer: Most brands with a remote require the batteries to be installed in the remote first, then the main unit. Typically there is a timeout of 3 to 5 minutes after which the main unit stops searching for sensors. With a new instrument you should establish communication with the sensor before moving it outdoors.

Check your manual, as each instrument will have specific instructions on how to get sensor readings. You can get most of the Oregon Scientific instruments to search for a remote sensor by pressing the memory and channel buttons together. For other brands, it is necessary to remove the batteries on both the transmitter and the receiver and reinsert them in the proper order and time frame. c Below 32°F alkaline battery voltage drops below the working voltage of a typical instrument and you lose the outside reading. Usually the reading will return when the remote warms up. For best performance at temperatures below freezing, use lithium or titanium batteries. Look for them in electronic or camera stores.

I am not getting a reading from my remote sensor at the listed distance.
Answer: These numbers are "open field" distances and are for comparison purposes like gas mileage. Walls, metal siding, wet vegetation, or anything that brings the signal toward ground level will diminish the actual distance. The signal may vary with weather conditions. It may be necessary to move the receiver closer to the wall nearest the sensor.

My weather prediction icon is showing sun (or rain) and just the opposite is happening outside.
Answer: The predictor icons work by monitoring the barometric trend; which is caused by weather systems moving into the area. These can herald clearing or a coming storm, and the time frame can be from 12 to 24 hours in the future. See the barometer section of this FAQ for more information.

Will my polished copper weathervane turn color with time?
Answer: Yes, unprotected copper will oxidize and change color with time. It will change to a green color that is called patina. How fast this color change occurs depends on where you are. In a very dry area, as in the high desert, this change will occur very slowly. The change will occur quicker in areas that are near the coast or in areas with acid rain. The best way to judge this change is to look around your area and see how other copper items have changed.

How do I keep my polished copper weathervane shiny?
Answer: If you want to keep your copper weathervane shiny you will need to use some kind of protective coating to keep it from oxidizing. Check with your local hardware store for recommendations on copper protectants. The weathervane will need to be treated at least once a year.

What size weathervane should I get for my house?
Answer: A good rule to follow is for every foot of roof line, you should have at least 1" of weathervane length. Example: a roof line that is 32' looks best with a 36" weathervane (whichever dimension is greater, height or width). Keep in mind that a simple 36" arrow has less stature than a more ornate, 36" eagle weathervane, so often it is better to select a weathervane that is a little larger.

How do I mount my weathervane?
Answer: Weathervanes can be mounted in two ways: through the roof mounting or an external roof mount. Through the roof mounting means you drill a hole though the ridgepole of your roof, and the mast of the weathervane is placed through the roof. The second way is to use a roof mount that affixes to your roof. The mast of the weathervane is then placed in the mount. Instructions for both ways of mounting are included with the weathervane and mount.

How far away can the remote sensor be from the main receiver?
Answer: The transmission ranges listed for each instrument are the maximum open-air distances between the transmitter and receiver in a straight line, although distance and resistance should be taken into account. Subtract 25 to 30 feet for an exterior wall or any obstruction that is similar in width or composition. Subtract 15 to 20 feet per interior wall or any obstruction that is similar in width or composition. (An obstruction would include anything that is in between the line of sight like a roof, walls, ceilings, floors, trees, etc.) Also keep your units at least six feet away from other electronic appliances such as a TV, microwave, computers, refrigerator, and other radio-controlled devices.